Ceremonial dress of the Achaemenid nobility of the VI– V centuries BC (according to findings from the fifth Pazyryk kurgan and synchronous iconic monuments of the Achaemenid time)
Journal Title: Поволжская Археология - Year 2015, Vol 3, Issue 13
Abstract
The article represents the results of study of a unique composite horse trapping and breast belt, discovered in a chief’s burial from the 5th Pazyryk burial mound (Mountain Altai, mid-3rd c. BC), and initially attributed as objects of Iranian origin. The trapping and the belt were decorated with 3 types of fragmented fancy cloth. The aim of the study consisted in defining the place and time of their creation, original usage, and mode of penetration to the Altai Saka medium. To achieve the goal, the author carefully studied the structures of items under research. The one with purple ground and “tower” pattern, which covers the end faces of the trapping felt foundation, is woven with woolen and linen Z-spun threads, in warp-sharing technique known as kilim (a “dove- tail” variant). The cloth is identified as Syrian, supposedly referring to the time of Darius I reign. The two other ones, with “lion procession” pattern (breast belt) and “priestess and maid servant in front of an incense burner” (framing the face panels) were also made from wool and linen, although of different quality and S-spinning, in slit-kilim technique. Both are identified as Egyptian, and dated (most probably) by the 27th (Persian) dynasty period. Comparison with representations of textiles similar in decor from time synchronous monuments, and study of historical data on textile industry of the Achaemenid Empire made it possible to suggest, that “purple kilim” and “lion procession” belt served as parts of ceremonial dress of Achaemenid nobility. The precious purple cloths could be brought to the Altai by the Scythians rewarded for their service in the army of Alexander the Great during his Asian campaign.
Authors and Affiliations
Elena Tsareva
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