ISPITIVANJE EFEKATA RAZLIČITIH EMOLIJENASA NA STRUKTURNA SVOJSTVA KREMOVA I NJIHOV EFEKAT NA VLAŽNOST I PH KOŽE
Journal Title: Acta Facultatis Medicae Naissensis - Year 2013, Vol 30, Issue 0
Abstract
Ispitivan je uticaj četiri emolijensa (cetearil oktanoat, decil oleat, C12-C15 alkil benzoat i maslinovo ulje) inkorporirana u kozmetički u/v krem, u koncentraciji od 10% (kremovi K1-K4, redom), na strukturna svojstva kremova i njihov efekat na vlažnost i pH kože zdravih ispitanika nakon jednokratne aplikacije. Struktura kremova ispitivana je polarizacionom mikroskopijom. Utvrđeno je prisustvo anizotropnih struktura, tj. potvrđeno je da se stabilizacija strukture ovih kremova vrši formiranjem lamelarne gel-kristalne i tečno-kristalne faze, koje su bile različite kod različitih kremova, verovatno kao posledica prisustva različitih emolijenasa. Ispitivanje efekata kremova K1-K4 na vlažnost i pH kože nakon jednokratne aplikacije (30, 90, 150 i 300 min. po primeni) vršeno je korišćenjem aparata MultiProbeAdapter(MPA®9, Courage&Khazaka Electronic, Nemačka), upotrebom odgovarajuće sonde, Corneometer® CM 825 za merenje kapacitativnosti, kao mere vlažnosti kože, dok je pH kože meren sondom Skin-pH-meter, PH 900. Rezultati ispitivanja ukazuju da prisustvo različitih emolijenasa u u/v kremovima, u koncentraciji od 10%, dovodi do različitog nivoa hidratacije kože nakon aplikacije, kao posledice različite strukturacije kremova, okluzivnog efekta kremova različite efikasnosti i različite brzine oslobađanja vode iz kremova. Krem sa decil oleatom dovodi do inicijalno dobrog hidrirajućeg efekta samog krema, pretpostavljamo zbog brzog oslobađanja velike količine vode iz krema. Kremovi sa C12-C15 alkil benzoatom i maslinovim uljem imaju slabiji početni efekat na vlažnost kože, ali pokazuju dobra okluzivna svojstva u toku ispitivanog perioda, ne dozvoljavaju pad vlažnosti kože dostignute neposredno po aplikaciji kremova. Do najslabije kratkotrajne hidratacije kože dovodi krem sa 10% cetearil oktanoata.
Authors and Affiliations
Dragana Stojiljković, Ivana Arsić, Marija Tasić Kostov, Zoran Jovanović, Vanja Tadić, Sofija Đorđević
Keywords
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- EP ID EP121051
- DOI 10.2478/afmnai-2013-0011
- Views 101
- Downloads 0
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