INVESTIGATION OF THE EFFECTS OF DIFFERENT EMOLLIENTS ON THE STRUCTURE AND SKIN MOISTURIZING POTENTIAL OF THE COSMETIC CREAMS
Journal Title: Acta Facultatis Medicae Naissensis - Year 2013, Vol 30, Issue 0
Abstract
In this study we investigated the effects of four emollients (cetearyl octanoate, decyl oleate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and olive oil) incorporated at a concentration of 10% on the structural properties of the cosmetic oil/water (o/w) creams (creams K1-K4, respectively) as well as the in vivo effects of those creams on pH and hydration level of the healthy volunteer’s skin after a single application. Creams’ structure was investigated throughout polarization microscopy. Anisotropic structures were found, i.e. stabilization of creams’ structure was performed by forming lamellar gel-crystalline and liquid-crystalline phase, different for different creams, which was probably caused by the presence of different emollients. The effects of creams (K1-K4) on skin hydration level and pH (30, 90, 150 and 300 min after single application) were examined using Multi Probe Adapter (MPA®9, Courage& Khazaka Electronic, Germany), with appropriate sonde, Corneometer® CM 825 for measuring capacitance as a measure of skin moisture level, while the skin pH was measured using Skin-pH-Meter, PH 900 sonde.The results indicate that the presence of the different emollients in o/w creams (10%) led to the creams'different effects on the skin hydration level. Cream with decyl oleate leads to a good initial hydration effect and probably rapid release of large amounts of water from the cream. Creams containing both C12-C15 alkyl benzoate or olive oil had a weaker initial effect on the skin moisture, showing good occlusive properties. A cream containing 10% cetearyl octanoate showed the lowest skin hydration potential.
Authors and Affiliations
Dragana Stojiljković, Ivana Arsić, Marija Tasić Kostov, Zoran Jovanović, Vanja Tadić, Sofija Đorđević
Keywords
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- EP ID EP136526
- DOI 10.2478/afmnai-2013-0011
- Views 83
- Downloads 0
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